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SMD Guide

£1.00
Weight:
0.10 KGS
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Product Description

GENERAL DESCRIPTION:

The kit consists of a relay circuit and the LEDs. The relay connects directly to the cars positive and negative terminals. The relay is energised by making the long white trigger wire live. For daytime running lights (DRL) mode, or always on mode as it is often described, the trigger wire gets it power supply from the accessories cable in the electrical distribution box. The lights work ONLY when you switch the ignition to position II. There is a delay (where the lights remain on) after you switch the ignition off, of up to 40 seconds.

Another source of power can be by bypassing the trigger wires and connecting directly to the side light harness. Retain the light bulbs in their holders to prevent alerting the dashboard warning system.

Another source could be as a separate power supply and your own on/off switch.

Finally the CPD product comes with a second trigger wire already connected (short yellow wire). This can be connected to the interior lights (passenger foot well for example) to provide you with a fade in/fade out capability when you press the remote.

[It is an option and some people don’t bother connecting this wire.]

Another option is to purchase (separately) a fader / rheostat kit to dim the lights if you think they are too bright.

WARNING:

Make sure your Sat Nav is OFF.

Disconnecting the main battery will invalidate and reset a number of the vehicles systems and you may need to re-boot them all over again on completion. You dont need to disconnect the main battery to fit AES.

Do NOT reconnect the top outer connectors on the inner black headlight shrouds when refitting them. Leave them short of clicking into place. They could interfere with the self-levelling operation of the headlights.

Switch on the sidelights after mounting the angel eyes to ensure the self-levelling system doesnt interfere with them or the surrounding brackets. Check that the self-levelling system has full and free movement otherwise on completion (lens fitted) you could find it knocks one or both angel eyes off centre.

Make sure the harness is laid out correctly inside the engine bay before installation to ensure various connectors/terminals reach the various accessories, such as ve and +ve terminals / accessory box / angel eyes, etc.

 

 

 

ANGEL EYES:

Test the angel eyes at various stages of fit. Use the 19mm ground earth terminal and the +ve jump-start terminal, both of which are in an exposed compartment in the engine bay just beneath the drivers side windscreen. Test them:

 

•             Before you do anything! Connect each set directly to the ve and +ve terminals. If they illuminate continue.

 

•             After they are mounted onto the headlights and wires have been threaded thru the H7 rubber boot at the back of the headlight cluster.

 

•             Immediately after connecting them to the relay harness (before the trigger wire is connected).

 

•             Finally, after the installation is almost complete: Before splicing the trigger wire to the accessories wire and before putting the headlight lenses back together - test the angel eyes by connecting the trigger wire to the +ve terminal. If they dont work, at least you wont need to dismantle the lights all over again!

 

RELAY HARNESS:

Connect the angel eyes onto the ends of the female and male relay harness wires:

 

•             Connect the short black wire (with a black harness cover with a round ring connector coming out of the relay box) to the cars ground 19mm terminal. Connect the short red wire (thick red cable with round terminal coming out of the relay box) to the +ve car terminal. Take hold of the longer of the two trigger wires (white on the CPD product) and firmly hold it to the +ve terminal. You should hear the relay making and also the angel eyes should work. Optionally: take the shorter trigger wire (yellow on the CPD product) and touch it firmly to the +ve terminal and the angel eyes should work, but you wont hear the relay making

 

 

PROBLEMS / ISSUES:

 

Dont separate the washer jets from the car. Simply free the inner and outer clips and prize the end nearest the grill out away from the body of the car sufficient for you to get your fingers in to unclip the lens cover.

Spend most of your time aligning the AEs and centering them on each of the lenses. Make absolutely sure you test the self levelling sequence by switching the side lights on and off to ensure the AE elements do not catch on the self levelling movement. Once happy I secured the crocodile clips with a tiny dab of transparent sealant to prevent the clips from wandering due to road vibration and bumps.

Check that the long trigger wire actually works by touching the +ve terminal (relay has to be connected to ve and +ve at this time also).

Also check the output of your cars accessory wire by switching the ignition to II and using a circuit tester to see if it illuminates. If it doesnt there is something wrong or you have the wrong cable!

Once the trigger wire has been tested and the accessory wire has been tested, splice the two together. WARNING: This is where most people have trouble because the best method is soldering. Anything else should be considered suspect. You MUST double check that the splice is successful, or your lights will not work.

 

TIDY UP and check for all your tools before driving off!

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